Kashgar

Overview

The most evocatively named of the cities on the Chinese Silk Road, Kashgar conjures up images of camel trains, bazaars, and all the other clichés of Old Central Asia. These days the camels have made way for the ubiquitous Chinese ‘blue truck’, but local traditions thrive even as the race towards modernization continues. Meanwhile, the location of this ancient oasis settlement, nestled on three sides by the glacial peaks of the Pamir Knot, and bounded on the east by the unforgiving Taklamakan Desert, remains as captivating as ever.

A large part of the central city has been rebuilt in typically well-ordered and functional Chinese style, but despite this the historical Kashgar remains very much in-your-face. Immediately behind the wide avenues recently created by city planners lies the old Uygur town, a shady warren of alleys that exists much as it has for millennia. Even the main avenues still see donkeys giving the internal combustion engine a run for its money - and of course a good kebab is never far away. For travellers interested in Uygur culture, Kashgar is likely to be a highlight of any trip to Xinjiang.

Kashgar thus has plenty to offer, including culture, history, excellent food, and for the adventurous, numerous possibilities for excursions to nearby villages, or into the desert or mountains.

Orientation, Transportation and Arrival

Kashgar is a small city, and areas of interest are rarely more than a leisurely stroll away. The city is oriented around two major roads. Renmin Xilu (West Renmin Rd.) is the centre of new development, and offers a typical provincial Chinese shopping experience centred on a couple of pedestrian shopping malls.  The shops thin out as Renmin Xilu becomes Renmin Donglu (East Renmin Rd.), which then runs past People’s Square (with its impressive Mao statue) and the attractive People’s Park.  The other main drag, Jiefang Beilu (North Jiefang Rd.), has a different character, being the focus of the traditional Uigur part of town. This street runs past the Id Kah Mosque, across from which are a couple of multi-level commercial plazas with a Uigur flavour.  It makes sense to orient yourself on Jiefang Beilu before plunging into the alleys of the old town.

Taxis are plentiful and cheap, with the 5 RMB flag fall getting you most places around the city centre. The only time taxis are likely to charge more than the metered fare is when picking up from the airport. However, a city bus departing from immediately outside the arrival terminal (10 RMB) makes it easy to avoid the airport taxis, and if you tell the driver your hotel you will probably be dropped off at the front door. Some hotels rent bikes cheaply, just watch they don’t get stolen (Qinibagh and Old Town Youth Hostel both offer this service). Best not take a lock, as it will give you a false sense of security.  Vehicles generally drive on the right in Kashgar, but be very careful when crossing the street.  Even while on the footpath it pays to take care.

Sightseeing

Things to do around town include:

• Wandering the old town
• Id Kah mosque
• Sunday market
• Tomb of Ikparhan (the Fragrant Concubine)
• Tomb of  Yusup Has (famous local philosopher and poet)
• Kashgar Museum – only if you are desperately bored
• Delicious local food

A visit to the rapidly shrinking old town is a must, and while it’s not as easy to get lost as in days gone by, it is still a fascinating place to spend a few hours.

Heading east from the commercial plazas opposite the Id Kah mosque, you should see a sign on your left reading ‘Kashgar Old Town’. This sign marks a mostly residential section of the old town that has been packaged for tourists. Entering this area you will probably be asked to stump up 30 RMB for a ticket. Your money gets you a guided tour, and since the tour can be quite informative it is not a bad deal. The guide will also get you into a Uigur home or two – interesting if you want to see inside one but don’t want to risk pissing off an indignant householder. Really though there is little to be seen here that can’t be seen elsewhere, and ignoring the sign and bearing right is equally rewarding. Local craftsmen and vendors ply their trades in workshops and on the street, and the tranquil alleyways can be wandered free of charge.  

Returning to the Id Kah mosque and walking East will see you in a bustling area characterized by traditional shops and restaurants, vendors chasing the tourist dollar, and mopeds battling the chaos.  The shops closest to the mosque are recently renovated and cater almost exclusively to tourists, but the streets behind still contain plenty of high quality local crafts. The copperwork is particularly good, though as with all local handicrafts it pays to be extra cautious since fake and misrepresented goods abound. You will see beautiful looking carpets laid on the ground outside some shops, an attempt to speed up the aging process, and thus increase the asking price. Generally speaking, taking a tour guide to assist in negotiations will neither help you get a better price, nor a more authentic product.   Noteworthy in this area is the historical ‘chai hanna’ teahouse at the corner of bazaar road and an alley running in a north-south direction.  Elderly Uiygur gentlemen stake out the prime spots on the upstairs veranda, but if you can score a seat then rest your legs while sipping sweet blossom tea and watching the bustle below.

The spiritual heart of old Kashgar is the Id Kah mosque. The oldest functioning mosque in China, its interior mixes a pleasant leafy courtyard with simple timber architecture.  Though it may appear to be a tourist attraction, bear in mind that it is an important place of worship to many. The place is particularly busy on Friday, so plan your visit accordingly.

For many Kashgar is all about the Sunday bazaar. While certainly worth a visit, and still a genuinely local shopping experience, be prepared for the fact that most of the merchandise is factory produced. Bargain for ‘antiques’, sample local produce such as dried fruits and nuts, feast on street food, and drink in the market’s diverse sights (the peripheral areas offer everything from knife-sharpening to second-hand shoes), but don’t expect to find too much that can’t be found elsewhere. The covered central portion of the market operates throughout the week, but Sunday sees vendors set up on surrounding empty lots and is when the serious crowds descend.

The (alleged) Tomb of Ikparhan (the Fragrant Concubine) is as much a monument to myth-building and the packaging of history for tourists as anything else. Ikparhan is a highly controversial figure, and the guides will spin whatever tale they think you most want to hear. However, while you may not find the real Ikparhan, the tomb and surrounding gardens are a must for their architecture alone.

If you are still searching for things to do you could drop by the Tomb of Yusup Has. One of Kashgar’s most noted residents, this poet, scholar and philosopher lived in the 10th Century. The tomb has been rebuilt numerous times over the centuries, most recently in 1989. There is minimal reason to visit unless you have an interest in the man’s work - and let’s be honest, few western tourists do. The structure is attractive, but you get relatively little for your 30 RMB entrance fee. On the other hand, one nice feature of the place is the lack of tourists. Poets apparently hold less fascination for the curious than concubines. It is a shame the peaceful outer courtyard contains no seats. Hard-core fans do not even get the chance to sit down and absorb the man’s works in appropriately contemplative surroundings.

The truly bored might want to check out the Kashgar Museum. The dimly lit one-room display includes Tang Dynasty painted clay figurines, and a well preserved Song Dynasty silk robe. Disappointingly, nearly all of it seems to have been unearthed thousands of kilometres away in Turfan, and local artefacts are minimal. There are far better museums around, but at least this one is free.

Finally, no visitors should miss the great Uyghur food. Good food can be had throughout Kashgar, but the numerous small restaurants of the old town are the best place to start. The pilaf is particularly good. Careful with the kebabs around these parts though, as many restaurants slip in pieces of organ. Hygiene is another concern. The adventurous can try pigeon soup – a local specialty. Head for the concentration of pigeon restaurants located west of the intersection between Seman Rd. and Jiefang Bei Lu. In season you can also try ‘Sokmak’ (literally ‘smash cake’), a delicious walnut nougat/cake that gets hacked off massive blocks that vendors trundle around on pedal carts. ‘Bahali cake’ is another sweet local treat, sold mostly from the Uyghur bakeries you will find around the Old Town. These bakeries also sell baklava – coarser and heartier than its Turkish relative.  If you look hard enough you might also find unusual sweetened naan bread.

For an upscale Uyghur dining experience try Alton Orda, roughly a hundred meters south-east of the Semen hotel. Enjoy the breathtaking local décor and excellent food. The menu is extensive, and in English. Fatless and organ-free kebabs are available and highly recommended. Prices are mostly very reasonable (delicious pilaf, yoghurt and pickled vegetables goes for under 15 RMB per serving), but be clear when ordering and double-check the bill. Mistakes happen. . .

Accommodation

There are options at most levels scattered across the city, though most people prefer to locate themselves near the heart of the action in the Old Town.

A stone’s throw from the Old Town, and set in (and named after) the former gardens of the British Consulate, the Chini Bagh Hotel has rooms at a range of price and comfort levels. The gardens have mostly been concreted over, but the former consulate (now a Chinese restaurant) still stands at the back of the hotel. To the right of the entrance, the new ‘International’ building offers clean, quiet rooms at a moderate price, though the in-room Internet is apparently unreliable, and the complementary breakfast is not worth getting out of bed for. Directly ahead lies the main building, where economical rooms lack Internet but are spacious and clean. The condition of the rooms improves above the second floor, so bear this in mind if you are fussy. Tucked in the back and on the right is the true budget option - the ‘Jingyuan’ wing. The first floor is recently decorated, but on higher floors the wallpaper peels from the walls.  Attractive and peaceful in the daytime, the courtyard design of this rear wing means noise from other residents can be a problem at night.  Overall, the Chini Bagh deserves special recommendation for being handy to the Old Town, having rooms for all budgets, and occupying a site appealing to history buffs interested in the Great Game played between Britain and Russia during the 19th Century.

Diagonally opposite the Chini Bagh and down Norbesh road in the heart of old Kashgar, you will find Old Town Youth Hostel. This atmospheric place offers cheap and simple dorms in a traditional Uyghur courtyard house. Unfortunately, they currently have no permit to accept foreigners. In practice this means the friendly management will allow you to stay, but you run a risk of being unceremoniously booted out by the slightly less friendly police.

Newly opened, handily located on Seman Rd., and good value for money at the upper budget end, is a franchise hotel from the “Home Inn” group. Spotlessly clean rooms come with reliable free broadband, and though difficult to believe, there are even “non-smoking floors”.

Kashgar’s premium hotel, the four-star International Hotel, sits beside People’s Square. This part of town is newly developed and not very atmospheric, but People’s Park makes a nice retreat. The rooms are extremely comfortable, and some boast views of the giant concrete Mao statue on the square below. Sadly the one thing the hotel lacks is a western breakfast.

Inconveniently located, out on the far side of town past East Lake (Dong Hu), is Mai Tian Hostel. Cheap and cheerful is the theme here, though once again a lack of permits to accept foreign guests could unexpectedly place you in the cheerless situation of seeking alternative accommodations.